auuxysvsqov

Wednesday, September 5, 2007

The 3 Steps to Marketing Like the Big Dogs From Home as an Independent Loan Officer

Youre an independent loan officer that works from home, but you still want to sell like youre backed up by the Big Dogs. That is not so hard when you know how to market. Sure, if you could market with XYZs big-time budget, then you could get more leads and close more loans. But, what if you dont have that kind of marketing budget? There is still a way to get those leads; you just have to get smart about it - like the Big Dogs.

It all comes down to RESEARCH. The hardest part is figuring out what to sell to whom. A one-man band with 30 different products to sell needs to know HOW to promote, WHAT to promote and WHO to promote to.

1) Research which product you need to market.

When you start researching, you cannot go off of assumptions because you know what they say about a-s-s-u-m-e (makes an ass out of u and me). What you have to do is go through your client list and tabulate what product you sell the most of. First calculate what product you sell the most of and then calculate what product you make the most money on. Those are the two products that you start with. However, if what you sell the most of is what you make the most amount of money on, then that is pretty fantastic but not likely. Youll probably find two products. Usually, you really have to do a sincere survey. You are looking to market the product that makes you the most income the quickest FIRST. Thinking it is a particular product rather than doing an empirical study is not marketing smart - because you may be wrong - believe it or not. When you are working from home, you need to be twice as smart when it comes to your marketing.

How you do it?

Make a spreadsheet and go through all of your past closes over the last few years. List them out: Product A, B, C, D get every close you made over the past few years and mark down what the product was and what you earned off of it.

Example:

Product A earned 1%

Product B earned $900

Product C earned %

Product D earned 1500.00

You will be able to see exactly what product you are selling the most of and what product you are making the most money on. Then you can start marketing to your bread and butter first. Once you have consistently marketed that product for a while, then you can supplement your marketing strategy and market the other product, the one paying the biggest commission while keeping the campaign continuing on your bread and butter. Marketing smart means marketing first what you sell the most of, the fastest. That is an important datum it sums it all up.

Now that you know which product to start with, you have to know who is going to buy it, which comes to our next step.

2) Research to find who the audience is that you are going to sell to.

Not all audiences are the same. Take for example the Will and Grace Show. Not everyone would want to watch that. Just like there is a totally different target audience for The Lawrence Welk Show. (If you never heard of these, then more than likely you arent their audience.) Case in point: you have to determine who your audience is, which is called a market. A market is a type of audience, a type of user. So, figure out everything you can about that particular market that buys your bread-and-butter product. And you already have access to all their data age ranges, credit scores, credit rating, income, etc. Tip: do another spread sheet.

Once you have the demographics of the people that buy your easiest-to-sell product, then get a list of that particular type of audience. You can go to a list company that you feel good about and have gotten recommendations for, and buy a list of people within that criteria.

The reason you want to do such a thorough job of finding out who you are selling to is that 40% of your marketing campaigns success (success meaning whether or not you get a good response) is dependent on your list. Besides, it is your list and the postage that are going to be the most expensive parts of your direct mail campaign. I cannot stress enough the importance of a good list it makes all the difference between marketing smart andwell, if you are not targeting your public, you arent really marketing at all.

After you research out who your target market is,

3) Figure out what to say to them.

The thing about people in a certain profession or a certain industry is that they have been in their industry for so long and know so much about their profession that they start to think that people know as much as they do or should know as much as they do. Most people are not educated in your particular product. Most people do not know there are all types of rates and products that are available to them depending on their credit, income, etc. And these people are not necessarily illiterate hicks from Country-Bumpkinville! They are educated people, but they have lots of other things they deal with everyday that take up all their time, e.g., picking up the kids from school, dealing with the boss at work, etc. Not everyone is watching Alan Greenspan every day!

Another thing you need to know, before you decide what it is you need to say in your message, is that it is very hard to educate people they dont want to be educated necessarily. You need to find out what the button is that people will respond to, that will get them to come to you for loans or refinancing or what-have-you. A button is a word, phrase, picture, etc. that elicits emotional response. People may not understand No PMI, but they understand fast cash. What is it about them that would make your message mean something?

It is all analysis. To figure out what you want to say, you have to figure out what people will respond to. You dont really want to say, Im the best broker ever that can match up any product with any customer! although that may seem like a good idea. First of all, a lot of people dont even know what a mortgage broker does!! So dont say that. You have to market differently to different types of people.

People have different agreements and fixed ideas and experiences. For example: Someone that has bought several homes has more experience on that line than someone who has never bought a home. If you found the product you sold the most of was to first-time home buyers , then you know they have little or no experience with mortgages. But everybody wants to own their own home; so what you want to say to them is You CAN own your own home its EASY!, or something of the sort. Look at it from a different angle. One person, who is really into boats and is reading Nova Online Speed Machines, would understand a jet hydroplane with a lightweight composite hull and a jet engine that could deliver 5,500 horsepower with the afterburner lit. But another guy, who has never owned a boat before, may just think it is just another fast boat and all hes looking to buy is a fast boat - without all the engineering details. You have to get your message across to your target market that is going to communicate to them. In other words, they are going to understand it and RESPOND.

Working out of your home, you dont have access to the Big Mortgage Banks Marketing Department. When you dont have a marketing expert telling you what to do, you may still need that experts help. So here again, do research to get that help or assistance. Go on the internet to find the biggest lenders web sites. Get on their mailing list. Look at their marketing materials so you can see what they send you not you as broker, but you as a potential customer. Not only are you researching how you are making the most money, but also research how the Big Dogs are bringing in the clients. What are the materials they are sending to the end-user? There is no need to reinvent the wheel. Find out what is working and do that. A lot of those Big Dogs are doing postcards.

Heres your assignment:

Now that you know, 1) which product you sell the most of, 2) which product you make the most money on and 3) what the successful big lenders are doing; start by mailing postcards (repetitively) to the first audience that buys Product (1). And you will start generating the kind of leads that buy the product that sells the easiest. Then, while still marketing Product (1), start mailing postcards (repetitively) for Product (2) and you will start getting leads that will buy the product that will pay you the highest commission. You will first get leads from the most-volume product and then while you are still getting those and closing them fast, you will get leads that pay the highest commission. Make sense?

To recap:

Research

Pick your marketing media I recommend postcards. You will get a lot of bang for your buck with that type of media.

Find a resource for mailing lists.

Get inside that publics mind and BE them and figure out what they would want to know. This, by the way, is a trade secret. If you can get inside your publics head and look at it from their viewpoint, then you can be a genius in your message. It is actually BEING them and looking at things from their viewpoint. Take Joe Blow who has never refinanced. Someone with average credit would probably be interested in a low cost equity line of credit so he can get money out of his house. Getting money communicates to people.

Send out postcards repeatedly getting a specific message across to your target audience that communicates their button.

If you want to sell like the Big Dogs, then learn some marketing; get yourself educated. Actually, this will make you stand out instead of running with the pack of inexperienced, uneducated marketers (youre competition). Good Luck!

Joy Gendusa founded PostcardMania (www.PostcardMania.com) in 1998, her only assets a computer and a phone. By 2005 the company did over $12 million in sales, employed over 100 people and made Inc. Magazines prestigious Inc 500 List as one of the 500 fastest growing companies in the nation. She attributes her explosive growth to her ability to choose incredible staff and her innate marketing savvy.

4 Dunlop
J 4wd
Jeep Skyjacker
4 Dunlop
Jeep
4
Jeep
Fen 4wd
Fe 4wd
4wd Banks

Historic Monaco Grand Prix - Grand Prix de Monaco Historique

The first Monaco Grand Prix was held in 1929 and it is now an important part of the Formula One calendar. The race covers many of the streets Principality of Monaco.

It is probably one of the most spectacular on the Formula One season being set a few metres from the Mediterranean Sea and at the foothills of the Alps. It is also very expensive and restaurant and hotel prices are adjusted accordingly for the long weekend event that is normally held in May. This is the same time as the Cannes Film Festival.

In 1997 the first Historic Monaco Grand Prix (Grand Prix de Monaco Historique) was held. The idea was to hold the race the week before the main Formula One event on the same circuit, particularly as all the infrastructure is in place.

It was then held in 2000 and since then every two years in May. Unlike the Formula One event that is 78 laps the races are only 10 to 15 laps depending on the category of cars racing. The event that is organised by the Automobile Club de Monaco is held over Saturday and Sunday with qualifying on the Saturday. Cars that are racing date back to pre- 1947, but there cannot be any post 1978 cars.

The day will attract many visitors who will also go to the annual Goodwood" Revival meeting in England in September. Unlike the Formula One race the tickets are not expensive (about 10% of the cost Approximately 15 euros) and restaurant prices are still normal unlike when the Formula One event is on. You can have a most enjoyable day's entertainment.

If you are visiting Monaco for the day, as many of the roads are closed off, parking can be very difficult. An excellent alternative to trying to come in by car is to take a train. There is a great service running along the coast from Ventimigla in Italy (plus Italian connections) on one side to Marseille on the other.

The noise from the track is not so loud as it would be for a modern Formula One race, unless they hold a parade of Ferraris as they did in 2004 and many of these were Formula One models. There is plenty of atmosphere to absorb including people watching the race from the yachts in the harbour or just people watching!

The Historic Grand Prix meeting is not over expensive to organise, as the stands, safety barriers, and the other essential infrastructure parts are already in place for the following week's F1 World Championship Grand Prix. Because many of the races are for cars from an age when drivers could be seen at work.

Today's F1 cars have high cockpit surrounds so it's difficult to see anything except the driver's head/safety helmet - with the cars in the Historic Grand Prix you can enjoy watching these racers with arms steering their beasts, often on opposite lock as they defy physics whilst treading that invisible line between total control and spinning off into the barriers.

Of course, it's only the bravest and most talented who drive these beasts at 10/10ths - some others are content to lap the circuit much more sedately, not wishing to take huge risks with their irreplaceable historic cars. But the heroes and heroines are those that have their cars sliding on the edge and giving spectators images that will last forever. 2006

The 5th Historic Grand Prix was no exception. Memorable. It took place on Sunday 21st May 2006, with practice sessions on Saturday 20th May.

The day's racing included a 10 lap event for sports cars built before 1953. In 1952, the Monaco event had been run for sports cars, as this was a period in F1 when the regulations were being changed from one engine to another and there was not an abundance of single-seater racing cars. How different to 1974, when 32 cars vied for 25 places on the grid..... The 2006 sports-car race featured cars that had competed in the '52 event or were competing in similar races at that time.

Amongst a gaggle of well driven 3.4 litre Jaguar C types, a brace of Ferrari 2-litre spyders, an Aston Martin DB3, a magnificent Gordini and two pre-2nd World War BMWs were a trio of Frazer-Nash cars. Much less powerful than many of the other runners, one of them, in the masterly hands of John Ure, dominated the event in early 2000 Schumacher style. Every lap, right on the limit, every lap like poetry in motion. That's why so many enthusiasts show up from around Europe and beyond.

Martin Stretton, in one of two 6-wheel Tyrrell-Cosworth 'bolides' in the 1975-78, was another on the edge throughout the penultimate race, perhaps the most exciting event of the day. Stretton, who prepares historic cars for a living, certainly knows how to make 'em slither and slide but somehow manages to keep them out of the barriers. He is the only driver to have won here at each Historic meeting to date.

Another sparkler, American Duncan Dayton came away from the meeting with two fine victories, one in the beautiful 1959 Lotus 16 and another in a 1970 Brabham. In both races he and his great rival, Spaniard Joaquin Folch, locked horns for the umpteenth time. Folch, a previous multi-winner here, had to settle for 2nd in one event and retired early in the other, mechanical gremlins spoiling what should have been a battle royal between the two Lotus 16 matadors.

Further information about Monaco: It is located on the Mediterranean Sea, tucked into the Maritimes Alps, it is only minutes from Nice International Airport ( bus, train and helicopter connections) and the French and Italian Rivieras. It has a population of 32,020 and is 2 sq km in size. The currency is the euro as in the neighbouring countries. Most of the people who dwell here come from somewhere else, drawn by the sun, glamorous lifestyle and most importantly tax-free income and more police per head of population than in any other European country.

If you are in the area for the Historic Grand Prix or the Formula One Grand Prix and are staying for a few days an enjoyable pastime is a visit to the annual Cannes Film Festival. Like in Monaco if you enjoy watching people, there are certainly plenty to watch at Cannes.

Philip Suter is a Director of jml Property Services; http://www.jmlproperty.co.uk a UK based company offering Insurance products on line at http://www.jml-property-insurance.co.uk and a holiday home advertising service http://www.jmlvillas.com and management training within the UK. He a travel writer and is a very experienced property consultant with over 30 years work in the Residential letting business in the UK and served on the National Council of ARLA. He is a Fellow of the National Association of Estate Agents (NAEA) and a Member of The association of Residential Letting Agents (ARLA)

Jeep 4wd
4wd
Fender
Fender
4 Pro
Jeep
Fen 4wd
Jeep
De 4wd
Jeep

In Less Than One Hour - Eliminate Shower Leaks by Installing a Solid Surface Shower Pan

INSTALLING A COMPOSITE SHOWER PAN IS FAST AND EASY. Before discussing the simple steps to install a composite shower pan, I felt that some clarification and definitions are necessary because not all shower pans are alike.

WHAT IS IN A NAME? A roof is a roof, although there are many different roofing systems and roofing materials. Not true with shower pans. They are often interchangeably called a shower pan, shower pan liner, shower pan membrane liner, waterproof barrier, shower base, shower tray, or shower receptor. Yet, each has a different meaning depending on context and each are available in a variety of materials.

Bob Vilas web site defines a SHOWER PAN as The base, containing a water drain, of the shower enclosure. And a SHOWER RECEPTOR as A one-piece base (floor) unit used as a shower, for example, to catch water and direct it to a center drain.

For the sake of clarity, I offer the following definitions.

SHOWER PAN & SHOWER BASE A finished area that is capable of retaining and directing water to the drain plus it doesnt require tiling once installed. The shower pan or base has a drain hole, sloped floor to properly direct water to the drain hole, sidewalls, and a threshold (entrance to the shower that forms a curb to keep water from running out onto the bathroom floor). A shower pan is synonymous with a shower base.

SHOWER PAN LINER, MEMBRANE LINER, & WATERPROOF BARRIER A barrier, usually a plastic sheet or membrane, that is intended to trap water that penetrates the shower floor tile, grout, and mortar under the tile and force the water to flow to the drain. As long as it doesnt leak, it prevents water from reaching the sub-floor and surrounding wall enclosure. The liner is a component within a constructed shower pan. A shower pan liner is synonymous with a shower pan membrane liner and a waterproof barrier.

SHOWER TRAY & SHOWER RECEPTOR A shower tray is synonymous with a shower receptor. Both are used in place of a liner. They serve the same function as the liner, but are pre-formed to eliminate some of the installation steps necessary when using a liner.

Shower pan liners, shower trays, and shower receptors are all used in conjunction with the construction of a shower pan that has a tiled floor as well as a tiled wall enclosure.

Commercially available shower pans are complete, ready-to-install units. They eliminate the need to create a mud sloped floor, a shower liner or tray, and tiling of the shower floor.

COMPOSITE SHOWER PANS. As composite shower pans are made from a number of different materials and constructed differently. I wanted to touch on each of the most common types. Composite shower pans fall into several material groups; cultured marble, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface. Generally all are made by fabrication of flat sheets, thermal-formed from a single piece of material, or molded or cast to form a one piece unit. The one-piece construction eliminates seams, which in turn eliminates potential leaks. Each has their pluses and minuses. Because beauty is in the eye of the beholder, I will not comment on appearance. All composite shower pans install on a flat, level floor and do not require the creation of a sloped mud base. Also, the cast or molded pans generally do not require the use of a plastic membrane.

Cultured marble and dressier versions, like cultured onyx and granite, tend to be the least costly. Cultured marble is made by spraying a gel-coat onto a mold. This coating is about 1/64 or less in thickness. The gel-coat is covered with pigmentation and then backed with calcium carbonate. The calcium carbonate gives the finished part its strength. Also, in the casting process it is infused with air pockets to lower its density and weight.

The cultured marble floor is cast separately from the sidewalls. Thus, the incorporation of a shower pan liner is essential to insure a watertight, leak free installation. Although widely used, the down side of cultured marble is that other than the gel-coat layer, the calcium carbonate is highly porous. Any crack or scratch through the gel-coat will allow water penetration. Other gel-coat characteristics include; yellowing, even without UV exposure; clouding from hot tap water; staining; crazing (fine hairline cracks); and it is not reparable when cracked or chipped.

Fiberglass is widely used as well. Fiberglass is strong, light weight and inexpensive. Many fiberglass manufacturers make one-piece shower pans and enclosures and one-piece combination tubs and showers with the wall enclosures. Similar to cultured marble, fiberglass is made with a gel-coat, then backed with pigment and chopped strands of fiberglass in a resin mixture. Generally the finished product is about 1/8 to 1/4 in thickness. The underside of the shower pan floor has webbing added to provide support to the floor. As the floor is not solid, the unsupported space between the webbing can flex. This flexing is especially noticeable with heavy loading or where one is standing between to the webbing. Over time, the flexing can cause material fatigue and cracking. Once a crack develops, the pan has failed.

Acrylic sheets are used to vacuum form shower pans, bathtubs, spas and many other items. The vacuum forming process begins with a 1/4 sheet of pigmented acrylic that is heated to a temperature that makes the acrylic ductile. The sheet is placed on a mold and stretched over the form to create the finished shape. The heating and stretching of the sheet causes a reduction in wall thickness. The reduction is directly proportional to the amount of stretching that occurs. With shower pans there is far less material reduction than with creating a tub or spa. The heating, stretching, and cooling of the material could also introduce stresses to the finished pan.

Like fiberglass pans, acrylic pans need support elements under the pan floor. A commonly used support element is polyurethane foam. The foam fills the void and eliminated the flexing of the pan floor. Acrylic sheet material is susceptible to crazing, minute surface cracking, and cracking when cleaned with many common cleaning chemicals. Should crazing occur, over time these cracks can lead to a pan failure.

Acrylic sheets have very different physical and chemical properties than acrylic solid surface materials. In addition to the acrylic resin used in solid surface, the solid surface material receives additional physical and chemical characteristics from the addition of alumina-tri-hydrate, or ATH. The ATH causes cleaners that adversely affect acrylic to have no affect on solid surface.

Solid surface shower pans are the top-of-the-line in physical and chemical characteristics as well as performance, reparability and a myriad of other features and benefits. The primary features of solid surface are it is non-porous, will not support the growth of mold, mildew, or bacteria, is available in a large variety of looks (some like natural granite) and colors, and is 100% repairable should chipping, scratching, or even cracking occur. Health departments throughout the country have approved solid surface materials for use in hospitals and food preparation areas for its resistance to bacterial growth, ease of cleaning and maintenance, and resistance to staining and contamination.

Some solid surface shower pan manufacturers fabricate their pans from sheet goods in a similar fashion as the acrylic shower pans. That is, they thermal form the pan floors by heating and stretching the material and then bond sidewalls and a threshold to the floor.

The Royal Stone brand of solid surface shower pans are the pans that I manufacture and will use to illustrate the simplicity and ease of installation that can be had when installing a composite shower pan. Unlike fabricated solid surface shower pans, the Royal Stone shower pans are a cast one-piece solid surface product. By casting the pan as a one-piece unit, there are no stresses introduced in the pan, and there are many other features engineered and designed into this pan.

The most obvious features are the large radius transition between the pan floor and its sidewalls. Secondly, the flange (also called a weep edge) is 1-1/2 tall. I have seen pans that do not incorporate an integral flange or have flanges 1/2 to 1 tall. The added height is designed to minimize, if not eliminate, any water being drawn up behind the wall surround panels that could cause water damage to the shower sub-structure.

Royal Stones pans have a minimum wall thickness of 1/2 and the webbing elements have a wide foot with large stress relieving radius corners between the pan floor and the webbing. All shower pans are engineered to support the weight of 3/4 thick (2 cm) granite slabs as well as all other commonly used wall materials like tile, fiberglass, acrylic, and solid surface panels. Finally, regardless of floor loading, the Royal Stone pan floor is so solid that it feels like one is standing on a rigid concrete floor. There is no perceptible flexing or oil-canning of the pan floor. Thus, there is no possibility of floor fatigue and cracking over time and the potential for pan failure is eliminated.

INSTALLATION IS FAST AND EASY. As I have already stated, composite pans install on a flat sub-floor. The following installation information may not apply to all types of composite shower pans. Specifically, I have direct knowledge of installing the cast one-piece solid surface shower pans that Royal Stone manufactures. Thus, the following directly applies to Royal Stones standard and custom shower pans. The same steps should also apply to other types of composite pans and other materials, however, follow the manufacturers recommended installation instructions.

As a manufacturer, I do not install pans. The photos included within this article were provided by a local installer. They were supplemented by photos of a different pan, for clarity of the installation process. Thus the different pan color and shape. Further, most of the photos were from a unique plumbing situation. The home had all of the plumbing above ground. Thus, a particleboard platform was built above the plumbing for the shower. The following installation information applies to concrete, plywood, particleboard, wood, etc. sub-floors at, above, or below grade.

Step #1 SUB-FLOOR PREPARATION: Using the template provided with the shower pan, place template on the floor and verify that the drain is in the correct location. If the drain is NOT properly located, relocate the drain. NOTE: Relocating the drain is usually far less expensive than having a custom pan cast to accommodate your existing drain location.

The hole in the sub-floor needs to be larger than the drain pipe. About a 6 round or square hole (about the size of a coffee can) is recommended. This larger opening allows room for the drain assembly that extends below the bottom of the pan. Most drain pipes are 2 PVC. The PVC pipe allows for some flexing within the 6 opening in the sub-floor. This flexing is desired and makes the pan installation easier. The PVC pipe should extend above the finished sub-floor by a minimum of 1/2 to about 3 to 4.

The sub-floor can be wood, plywood, concrete or any other rigid or well supported surface. The sub-floor must be level and free from debris. To assure a level floor, check the floor with a long level as shown in Fig. 1. The longer the level, the more likely that the sub-floor will be level at its greatest dimensions. Check front to back at the left and right sides and at the center. Do the same from side to side. Finally, check the diagonals. Fig. 2 indicates the location of the 8 readings that should be taken.

Depending on the results of the level measurements, some additional prep may be necessary. If the sub-floor is relatively flat, shims may be used to make the shower pan level. If the floor is uneven and out of level, pouring self leveling thin-set material may be necessary.

Once the sub-floor is level and the opening for the drain is correct, the setting of the shower pan is next.

Step #2 ATTACH DRAIN ASSEMBLY TO PAN: A standard 2 part Brass Drain Assembly is recommended, as shown in Fig. 3. This type of assembly should be readily available at any plumbing supply store or home improvement store. Royal Stone also sells this drain assembly. Disassemble the drain assembly. Keeping the components in order makes reassembly faster and easier.

Place the pan on saw horses or any raised platform that allows access to the top and bottom of the pan. Spray the drain opening with rubbing alcohol, Fig. 4. With a clean rag, wipe the surface and interior edge of the pre-cut drain opening, to remove any dust or other contaminants from the pans drain area. Around the drain opening apply a generous bead of 100% silicone, Fig. 5.

Insert Brass Drain Body, Part #5 of the Brass Drain Assembly into the drain hole, Fig. 6, and press firmly into place, Fig. 7.

Step #3 REMOVE EXCESS SILICONE: Remove the excess silicone from the Drain Body, Part #5. Spray an alcohol mist over the drain area and the silicone, Fig. 8. With a Dap-Cap, scoop away the excess silicone, Fig. 9. This step may have to be repeated several times to completely remove the silicone. Last, spray a mist of alcohol and wipe remaining film away from the Drain Body, Part #5, with a soft cloth.

Step #4 MOUNT DRAIN LOCKING RING: Attach the Drain Strainer, Part #1, to assure that the Drain Body, Part #5, is centered within the drain hole, Fig. 10. From the bottom side of the shower pan, attach Parts #6, 7, & 8 to Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #8 until snug. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Over tightening may crack the shower pan. Remove the Drain Strainer, Part #1, and set aside.

If any additional silicone has been squeezed out from between the shower pan drain and the Drain Body, Part #5, repeat Step #3 until all excess silicone has been removed.

HANDLING TIP: Using a set of glazers grips allows for easier handling and moving the pan into the proper location. If these are not available, brute force also works.

Step #5 DRY FIT THE SHOWER PAN: Lower the shower pan into place. Make sure that about 1/8 space exists between the shower pan flange and the studs. With the level, confirm that the pan is sitting flat on the floor as shown in Fig. 11 & 12. If additional shimming is required, lift pan and place shimming material where required. Lower the pan into place and check for level. Repeat until the pan is level.

CAUTION: When leaning and handling the shower pan, handle carefully to prevent damage to the shower pans flange.
A LEVEL PAN IS ESSENTIAL FOR PROPER DRAINAGE.

Step #6 SILICONE THE BOTTOM OF THE PAN: Lift pan and lean against one of the studded walls. Apply 100% silicone caulking to the webbing, Fig. 13, on the underside of the shower pan . Also, apply a thick silicone ring around the drain opening in the sub-floor, Fig. 14. If shims were used, silicone all shims into position on sub floor as required.

Step #7 SET SHOWER PAN: Lower shower pan into place. Check the pan for level. Press down as necessary to re-level the shower pan. Apply a silicone bead along the front edge of the threshold to seal the threshold of the pan to the sub-floor.

Step #8 CONNECT DRAIN PIPE TO DRAIN ASSEMBLY: Inject silicone completely around and between the drain pipe and the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, as shown in Fig. 15. Place the Rubber Gasket, Part #4 of the Drain Assembly, over the PVC pipe and slide down until the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is completely seated and is below the top of the Drain Assemble, Fig. 16. Screw the Locking Ring, Part #3 of the Drain Assembly onto the Drain Body, Part #5. Tighten the Locking Ring, Part #3, with the Tightening Tool, Part #2 until the Rubber Gasket, Part #4, is seated and tightly in place.

Step #9 TRIMMING THE PVC: The top of the PVC drain pipe MUST NOT extend above the Brass Drain Body, Part #5. If it is at the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5, or extends above the top, trim the PVC so that it is about 1/4 lower than the top of the Brass Drain Body, Part #5 but is taller than the top of the Rubber Gasket, Part #4. Cut the PVC pipe with a Dremel and a cut-off wheel.

If the Tightening Tool, Part #2 has not already been removed, remove it and press the Drain Strainer, Part #1, into place. The installation is complete. Excluding any sub-floor preparation, the installation should take about one hour or less.

Step #10 CURING: Let the shower pan set for 24 to 48 hours to allow the silicone to properly cure. Once cured, the wallboard and wall panels can be installed.

CAUTION: When attaching solid surface shower pans and wall panels, ONLY use 100% SILICONE. Other adhesives or caulks may harden. The loss of the elastic bond between the solid surface and other materials can cause stresses in the solid surface. In turn, these stresses may cause fractures of the part and void the manufacturers warranty.

Milton Lemberg is President and Marketing & Sales Manager of Royal Stone Industries. He holds a degree in mechanical engineering and is the engineer and designer of the shower pans Royal Stone offers. Any questions should be directed to Mr. Lemberg at milt@royalstoneind.com or to Royal Stone Industries, Inc., 2949 N. 31st Ave., Phoenix, AZ 85017. For further information on Royal Stones 22 standard shower pans, custom shaped shower pans, wall surround kits and accessories, and 48 standard colors, visit Royal stones web site at http://royalstoneind.com/products_Shower.asp

4 Pro
4 4wd 4x4
4wd
4wd
All C 4wd
4 4
Nissan 4wd
Jeep
4wd Jeep
Rcd Nascar

Aug 1, 2007 Aug 2, 2007 Aug 4, 2007 Aug 6, 2007 Aug 7, 2007 Aug 8, 2007 Aug 9, 2007 Aug 10, 2007 Aug 11, 2007 Aug 12, 2007 Aug 14, 2007 Aug 15, 2007 Aug 16, 2007 Aug 17, 2007 Aug 18, 2007 Aug 19, 2007 Aug 20, 2007 Aug 21, 2007 Aug 22, 2007 Aug 23, 2007 Aug 27, 2007 Aug 28, 2007 Aug 29, 2007 Sep 4, 2007 Sep 5, 2007 Sep 6, 2007 Sep 7, 2007 Sep 10, 2007 Sep 11, 2007 Sep 13, 2007 Sep 16, 2007 Sep 19, 2007 Sep 20, 2007 Sep 22, 2007 Sep 25, 2007 Sep 26, 2007 Sep 27, 2007 Sep 29, 2007